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The Klimt trail in Vienna: following the painter through his city

The Klimt trail in Vienna: following the painter through his city

Gustav Klimt (1862–1918) is the most famous painter associated with Vienna, but his relationship to the city was complicated. He was born in Baumgarten (now the 14th district), grew up in poverty, trained at the Vienna School of Arts and Crafts, and spent his entire career in a city that alternated between celebrating and scandalising him. His work was called pornographic by the Vienna University Senate; his three University Paintings were condemned by the Austrian Ministry of Education. He never taught, held no academic position, refused state honours. He lived with twelve cats, allegedly fathered 14 children, walked to his studio every day, and died in February 1918 of a stroke, having said almost nothing quotable about his own work.

His paintings are in Vienna. Here is where.

WhereBelvedere, Secession Building, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Burgtheater
Time neededA full day for all four; half a day for Belvedere + Secession alone
CostBelvedere around 17 €, Secession around 6.50 €, KHM staircase free to view
Best timeWeekday morning, before 10:00, for the Belvedere’s Klimt rooms
NearbyThe Leopold Museum for Klimt drawings and Schiele

The full Klimt trail guide lays out a suggested route if you want to see everything in one day rather than following my diary order.

The Belvedere: the essential address

The Upper Belvedere (Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27, 3rd district) has the most important Klimt collection in the world. The Kiss (1908), Judith I (1901), and seven other major works are in the permanent collection.

I arrived at 9:05 on a Tuesday in June, before the coaches. The room with “The Kiss” (Room 8, first floor) had two other visitors. This matters because “The Kiss” — 180 × 180 cm, oil and gold leaf — is a painting that rewards examination without competition for space. The gold-leaf patterning (the man’s costume in geometric squares, the woman’s in rounded flower shapes — a distinction of gender coded into the surface texture) takes several minutes to see properly. The cliff edge the two figures are apparently perched on. The woman’s slightly sideways turned head, suggesting either bliss or reluctance. The way the gold dominates and the faces and hands are the only naturalistic elements.

The Vienna: Belvedere and The Best of Gustav Klimt private tour gives the Belvedere’s Klimt collection the depth it merits — the private guide explains the symbolism in Judith I (the Jewish widow who seduces and beheads the Assyrian general Holofernes, here shown in the erotic haze of post-execution, the severed head visible at the painting’s edge), the relationship between Klimt’s golden period and the Byzantine mosaics he studied in Ravenna.

Admission: Online booking is helpful for the time slot. See our Belvedere Klimt tour review for the options. If you would rather wander alone, an entry ticket for the Upper Belvedere and its permanent collection is enough to reach the Klimt rooms.

The Secession Building: the founding manifesto

The Secession Building (Friedrichstrasse 12, 1st district) was built in 1897 for Klimt’s group of artists who broke from the conservative Vienna Artists’ House — the Vienna Secession, founding the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) movement in Austria. The golden laurel-dome (the “golden cabbage,” as the Viennese called it, affectionately), the inscription above the door (Der Zeit ihre Kunst, der Kunst ihre Freiheit — To every age its art, to art its freedom).

The Beethoven Frieze in the basement is Klimt’s major surviving decorative work — 34 metres of frieze painted in 1902 as a response to Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. The panels: “The longing for happiness” (floating female figures, gnawing worm, Gorgons), “The hostile forces” (the knight in golden armour fighting the Typhon monster), “The choir of paradise” (figures in the gold-leaf style that would define his later work). Entry 6.50 €; the Frieze alone justifies it.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum: the early work

The Kunsthistorisches Museum (Maria-Theresien-Platz, 1st district) has Klimt’s early decorative work on its walls — literally. The ceiling panels and spandrel paintings in the grand staircase (1890–1891) are by the young Klimt and his studio, commissioned for the KHM’s inauguration. They show ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Roman art through allegorical female figures — the academic style the Secession would soon reject, but accomplished and interesting in its own right.

Look up at the staircase ceiling when you arrive. The Klimt-painted sections are on the right side of the main staircase (look at the individual panels for the signature style beginning to emerge). If you plan to explore the galleries beyond the staircase, a day admission ticket to the museum lets you take it at your own pace.

The Burgtheater: the lost friezes

The Burgtheater (Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Ring 2, 1st district) has Klimt ceiling paintings in the grand staircase — the Shakespeare Theatre in London (with portraits of the Globe’s first audience, including Shakespeare himself), the Altar of Dionysus, and the ancient Greek theatre at Taormina. These were commissioned in 1886–1888 when Klimt was still working in the academic tradition. Entry to the Burgtheater for guided tours includes the staircase.

What was lost: Klimt’s three University Paintings — Philosophy, Medicine, and Jurisprudence — were the most ambitious and the most controversial works of his career (1900–1907). All three were destroyed by fire at Schloss Immendorf in May 1945, when retreating SS troops burned the castle where they had been stored for safekeeping from Allied bombing. What remains: historical photographs, preparatory sketches. The loss is one of the great cultural tragedies of the 20th century.

What Vienna keeps of Klimt

Beyond the major works: the Leopold Museum (MuseumsQuartier, 7th district) has Klimt drawings and studies in its collection alongside the world’s largest Schiele collection. The Wien Museum (Karlsplatz 8) has Klimt’s portrait of Sonja Knips (1898) — one of his finest early works, the iridescent dress already suggesting the direction he would take.

The Klimt Villa (Feldmühlgasse 11, 13th district) — the studio house in Hietzing where Klimt worked from 1911 until his death. Open to visitors Tuesday–Sunday in the warmer months. The garden studio is intact; the sketching tables, the material used in his collage works, the model stand. A place where work was made rather than admired.

Klimt in context: the city around the paintings

Klimt makes more sense once you see the Vienna he worked in. The monumental buildings of the Ringstrasse were still new when he started out, and the decorative commissions that launched his career belonged to that building boom. Our Ringstrasse architecture walk is a good companion to the Burgtheater and the Kunsthistorisches Museum stops, because it shows the facades and the staircases as parts of one ambitious project.

The wider story of the empire he lived under is in our Habsburg history for travelers guide, and Franz Joseph and Sisi covers the court whose taste the Secession set out to challenge. If you want to see how the younger generation reacted to Klimt, the Schiele and Vienna Secession guide picks up where this diary leaves off.

Pairing the trail with the rest of Vienna

A Klimt day does not have to be only about Klimt. The Belvedere’s gardens and the lower palace are covered in the Belvedere Palace guide, and the Albertina is close enough to the centre to slot into another morning: see the Albertina Museum guide if drawings and graphic work interest you. For a wider look at what else is worth your time, the best museums in Vienna guide helps you decide what to keep and what to drop.

Between museums, the city’s coffee houses are the natural place to rest your feet, and Klimt’s own era is the era of the great cafés. Our best coffee houses in Vienna guide and the coffee house etiquette notes will save you from the usual first-timer mistakes. In the evening, the Vienna State Opera guide and the classical music itinerary pair well with the Beethoven Frieze, since the Frieze is itself a response to Beethoven.

Planning the trail around your stay

How much of the trail you can do depends on how long you are in town. With only a short stay, the three-day itinerary leaves room for the Belvedere and the Secession, while the four-day itinerary lets you add the Kunsthistorisches Museum and the Leopold Museum without rushing. Not sure how long to stay? Our how many days in Vienna guide gives an honest answer. If you are buying a sightseeing pass, check the Vienna Pass review first and work out whether the museums on your list actually add up. For the neighbourhood around the first stop, the Belvedere district page is a good starting point, and the Innere Stadt page covers the centre where the Burgtheater and the KHM sit.

If you are visiting for the first time, our first time in Vienna diary and the account of a week in Vienna show how the Klimt stops fit into a longer trip, and the Vienna photography spots guide is worth a look for the exteriors, since the interiors are not always open to photography.

A practical one-day route

If you only have one day, the order matters more than it seems — the Belvedere gets busy from mid-morning and the Secession’s basement Frieze room is small enough that a few coach groups can fill it.

  1. 09:00 — Upper Belvedere, before the coaches. See our full Belvedere Palace guide for ticket timing and the rest of the palace beyond Klimt.
  2. 11:00 — Secession Building, a 20-minute walk or two tram stops away, for the Beethoven Frieze.
  3. 13:00 — lunch, then the Kunsthistorisches Museum staircase — even a quick visit is worth it for the early ceiling panels; see the Kunsthistorisches Museum guide for the rest of the collection.
  4. Afternoon — Leopold Museum in the MuseumsQuartier, for Klimt drawings alongside the world’s largest Schiele collection — our Schiele and the Vienna Secession guide explains how the two painters’ work relates.

Staying in or near the Belvedere district makes the first stop trivially easy and is worth considering if Klimt is the main reason for your visit.


Vienna keeps Klimt’s most important work, but what it does not keep — the University Paintings, the drawings he made in the last decade and distributed casually — reminds you that the archive of any artist’s life is always incomplete, always a negotiation between what survived and what the world decided to preserve. The Belvedere and the Secession are the essential addresses. What those walls contain is what is left.

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