Belvedere district

The Belvedere and Klimt’s most famous canvas

The Upper Belvedere palace houses what is arguably the most-visited single painting in central Europe: Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss” (1907–08). On a gold-leaf field, two figures embrace in Klimt’s signature Byzantine-influenced style — a work that draws longer queues in its room than the Mona Lisa does in the Louvre, scaled for the size of the institution.

But reducing the Belvedere to “The Kiss” misses a remarkable collection. The permanent collection covers Austrian art from the baroque period through Vienna Secession and Austrian Expressionism — with major works by Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka, and a strong selection of 18th-century European painting. The building itself, built by Prince Eugene of Savoy from 1717 to 1723, is one of the finest baroque palaces in Europe.

Upper Belvedere

The Upper Belvedere houses the permanent collection on three floors. The ground floor covers baroque and medieval; the first floor contains the Klimt rooms (several major works, not just “The Kiss”) and the Schiele and Kokoschka holdings; the top floor has the Austrian Biedermeier period.

Buy Upper Belvedere entry with the permanent collection ticket — the online booking is the same price as the gate and avoids the entrance queue, which grows through mid-morning.

A private Belvedere and Klimt guided tour is the best way to understand the symbolism in “The Kiss” and Klimt’s relationship with his models and patrons — the story of the painting is richer with a knowledgeable guide.

Lower Belvedere and Orangery

The Lower Belvedere (north end of the gardens, separate entrance) houses the Baroque Museum and the Orangery. The Baroque Museum shows Prince Eugene’s original collection — including the marble sculptures from the staircase — while the Orangery hosts temporary exhibitions and classical concerts in a long barrel-vaulted hall.

The Lower Belvedere is often overlooked by visitors who go directly to the Upper. Combined tickets cover both. The Marble Hall in the Lower Belvedere is spectacular — gilded, frescoed ceiling, and Prince Eugene’s equestrian portrait in full regalia.

The gardens

The formal French gardens between the two palaces are free to enter from the main Prinz-Eugen-Strasse entrance (open from 06:30). The axis from the Lower Belvedere fountain to the Upper Belvedere entrance is one of Vienna’s finest formal garden walks. Sphinx sculptures flank the steps; the reflecting pools in front of the Upper Belvedere mirror the palace facade at its best light in the morning.

The Alpine Garden (Alpengarten) adjacent to the Belvedere grounds is one of Europe’s oldest alpine plant gardens, maintained since 1803. Open April to July; separate admission.

Getting there

Tram D from the Schwarzenbergplatz to Schloss Belvedere — about 10 minutes from the Ringstrasse. By foot from the Hauptbahnhof (main station): 15 minutes through Landstrasser Gürtel. By foot from the Innere Stadt: 25 minutes past the Schwarzenbergplatz.

Belvedere 21

Belvedere 21 (formerly the Austrian Pavilion from the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair, redesigned and reopened in 2011) is in the Schweizergarten park south of the Südbahnhof. It specialises in Austrian contemporary art from 1945 to the present and is the least-visited branch of the Belvedere group — which makes it one of the more rewarding for anyone interested in postwar Austrian art without the crowds.